Overhead view of a gray residential air conditioning condenser unit mounted on a concrete pad beside a house with asphalt shingle roofing.

AC Repair in Mount Vernon, WA

If your air conditioner quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Skagit County will get in touch.

Tell us about the job

It takes about a minute.

Step 1 of 3: Equipment
An overhead view of a residential air conditioning condenser unit mounted on a concrete pad next to a house with vinyl siding.

Mount Vernon doesn't ask much of an air conditioner

Summer afternoons here average 69°F. That's mild enough that a lot of homes in Skagit County don't run their AC at all most years. When you do turn it on, it's for a handful of hot days, not a long stretch of use that would wear a system down on its own.

That changes what usually goes wrong. A unit that sits idle for months can have trouble starting back up when the first warm day hits. Capacitors weaken from age and disuse, not from heavy running. So the common complaint here isn't a system that broke down from overwork. It's one that won't start, or won't blow cold, the first time you ask it to.

Isometric grayscale illustration of a cutaway house showing interior rooms, ductwork, an indoor air handler, and an outdoor condenser unit on a pad connected by lines.
Your air conditioner works hardest from July through August.

NOAA nClimDiv, 1991–2020 normals

An outdoor air conditioning condenser unit on a concrete pad next to the gray vinyl siding of a residential home.

A new air conditioner would save little on running costs in Skagit County, so the repair decision comes down to the unit's condition.

  • An older air conditioner$30 a year
  • A new one at the federal minimum, 13.4 SEER2$30 a year

Estimates for a typical Skagit County home, compared with an older unit built to the previous federal minimum, from EIA household energy data, Washington fuel prices and NOAA climate normals. Your home will differ.

Repair makes sense when a part like a capacitor or contactor has failed.

Replacement makes sense when the compressor has failed or the system uses R-22 refrigerant, which is no longer made.

Washington requires contractors to register with the state.

That registration puts the business on file with Labor and Industries and requires it to carry a bond and insurance. Nobody tests the contractor's ability to repair an air conditioner before handing that out. So the number on the truck tells you the business is registered in this state, not that anyone checked its work.

For your repair, the protection that matters is federal. Anyone who opens the refrigerant side of your air conditioner, to recover it, add to it, or fix a leak, has to hold EPA Section 608 certification. That rule applies in every state, Washington included, and it exists because refrigerant itself is regulated. Washington's registration does not test for that skill. The 608 card is what does.

Source: Washington State Legislature

Why is my AC not blowing cold air?
The most common cause is a dirty air filter choking off airflow, followed by low refrigerant from a leak. A blocked outdoor coil covered in dirt or grass clippings can do the same thing, since it keeps the system from shedding heat. If the air coming out is warm rather than just weak, refrigerant is the more likely culprit, and that means a leak a contractor has to find and seal. Anyone who opens the refrigerant side of the system needs to hold EPA Section 608 certification, so this part of the repair is not a DIY fix.
Why is my AC leaking water?
Usually the condensate drain line is clogged, and water that should run outside is backing up into the house instead. It can also mean the drain pan has rusted through, or the evaporator coil has frozen over and is now melting onto the floor. A frozen coil points to another problem underneath it, often low airflow from a dirty filter or low refrigerant. Clearing the drain line is straightforward, but if the coil is icing up, that needs a closer look.
Why won't my AC turn on?
Check the thermostat first, since dead batteries or a setting knocked off cool will stop the system before it even starts. If the thermostat looks fine, the next place to check is the breaker, since a tripped breaker cuts power to the whole unit. Outside, the outdoor unit has its own disconnect switch, and if that's been bumped or pulled, the system won't run even with power at the breaker. If none of that brings it back, the problem is likely inside the unit itself, and that calls for a contractor to test it.