HVAC Repair in Aberdeen, WA
If your system quits, tell us what it's doing and a licensed contractor who covers Grays Harbor County will get in touch.
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Ten months of heat, barely any real summer
Aberdeen barely gets a cooling season at all. Summer afternoons top out around 71°F, mild enough that a lot of homes never run air conditioning hard. Your furnace or heat pump is a different story. It runs September through June, close to ten months out of the year, because winter nights sit around 34°F for months at a stretch.
Most homes here heat with electricity, so the system is working almost every day it's cold, which is most days. That kind of steady demand wears on the igniter, the blower motor, and the electric elements or heat pump components that carry the load. And when the power goes out, close to a quarter of Washington households lost it for a full day or more last year, the heat stops with it. If your system won't come back on once the power's restored, that's worth a look before the next cold snap.
- 10 months
- September through June, your system heats
- 34°F
- the average winter night it heats against
- 71°F
- the average summer afternoon it cools against
Washington requires contractors to register with the state.
Registration puts the business on file with Labor and Industries. It does not mean anyone tested the contractor's knowledge of furnaces, heat pumps, or the lines that carry gas and refrigerant through them. There is no trade exam behind the number on the truck, just a record that the business exists and is registered to work in this state.
For a repair like this, the registration is not what stands behind the work. It confirms the business is on file with the state. It says nothing about whether the person at your house knows a heat pump from a furnace, or how to close up a gas line so it stays closed.
Source: Washington State Legislature
- Why is my heat not working?
- Start with the thermostat and the power to the furnace before you assume the worst. Check that the thermostat is set to heat and a few degrees above room temperature, and check the breaker for the furnace along with any switch that looks like a light switch near the unit itself, since that shuts the furnace off. If those are fine, listen for whether the furnace tries to start at all. A furnace that clicks but never lights points to the igniter or the flame sensor. One that does not respond at all points to power or the thermostat. With most homes here heating from September through June and winter nights averaging 34°F, a furnace that is down for even a day is worth getting to a contractor quickly.
- Why is my system running but not cooling the house?
- If the blower is running but the air is not cold, the problem is usually with the outdoor unit or something blocking airflow, not the fan itself. Check the outdoor condenser first. If it is caked with grass clippings or leaves, or the fins are packed with dirt, it cannot shed heat and the air coming out of your vents will feel closer to room temperature than cold. Next check the filter. A filter that is clogged chokes the airflow across the indoor coil, and the coil can ice over, which cuts cooling even though the blower still runs. If the outdoor unit is clear and the filter is clean, the system likely needs a contractor to check refrigerant charge or the coil itself.
- What can I check before calling for HVAC repair?
- Check the thermostat settings first, since a wrong mode or a dead thermostat battery causes a lot of no-heat calls. Check the breaker panel next, along with any disconnect switch near the furnace or outdoor unit, since a tripped breaker or a flipped switch will stop the system cold with no other symptoms. Check the filter and pull it out if you cannot remember the last time it was changed. A dirty filter restricts airflow enough to cause real problems, from a furnace that overheats and shuts itself off to a coil that ices over. If you have gone through those and the system still is not working, a contractor can take it from there.